If the oil change period (first replacement after 5 thousand km, and then every 10 thousand km) didn’t come out, but you are tormented by doubts, try to determine the condition of the oil using the experience of experienced motorists. Apply a few drops of oil taken from the crankcase (with a probe) on filter paper. Spots of light yellow and light brown with blue colors correspond to the good condition of the oil. A dark spot should be alarming. Some motorists are quite qualified to check the oil by touch. If the fingers, rubbing the oil, feel heat and hard grains, then the oil needs to be changed, since it is liquid and contains mechanical impurities. The presence of mechanical impurities is most likely during the first oil change. Despite the high culture of production and the most advanced technology for manufacturing engine parts, the smallest metal particles are still separated and washed away by the oil constantly circulating in the system. The main amount of these particles settles in the labyrinths of the oil filter, but some of them still escape into the system.
On cars «Zhiguli» unlike other car brands, all the oil circulating in the system passes through the oil filter, which is why it is called full flow. The filter works efficiently while the folds of its filter element are still able to collect waste. It is replaced with a new one at the same time as changing the oil.
Since the crankcase drain plug is located at the bottom of the engine crankcase, it is naturally desirable to perform the oil change operation on an inspection ditch or overpass. Necessary tools and materials for this: a wrench for unscrewing the oil filter, which is commercially available; wrench 12 mm for unscrewing the cork; dishes for draining used oil; fresh oil (3.75 l) and oil filter complete with rubber gasket; napkins or some old soft cloths for cleaning.
If the car is prepared for the operation, i.e., installed in the right place and insured with wheel stops and a parking brake against movement, if the hood is open and the oil filler cap is removed, the oil can be drained. In order for the oil to drain quickly without residue, it must be hot, so when performing the operation, be careful to avoid burns. The waste oil container should be placed under the drain hole, slightly shifting it back along the vehicle, since the hole is located at an angle of 30°. Drain time 10 min.
The oil filter is removed when most of the oil has already drained out. The filter is unscrewed with a special key. Worse, when there is no such key. Sandpaper can help (coarse-grained). After wrapping the filter housing with the abrasive side, turn it counterclockwise. There is another way to unscrew the filter, but it is used in the most extreme cases, when there is no other way out. The filter body is pierced with the firmware available in the driver's tool kit, and, having put an extension cord on the end of the firmware, the filter is unscrewed.
On the front side of the oil filter there is an annular groove in which a rubber seal is located. So that the gasket does not move when installing the filter, it is pre-lubricated (preferably with grease). The gasket securely seals the filter and does not require special efforts during installation. After installing a new filter (remember: the filter is disposable) you can fill in fresh oil by first screwing in the drain plug. Oil is poured into the oil filler neck carefully, slowly, so as not to pour over the engine, and close the neck with a lid.
Only oils recommended by the factory should be poured into the engine of VAZ cars. Among imported oils, one can find substitutes for domestic ones, however, switching to any other type of oil is impossible without first flushing the lubrication system.
Foreign analogues for domestic «Zhiguli» oils can serve: as a winter oil SAE 20WAPI «SE», as an all-weather oil SAE 15W-30API «SE». For those who are interested in what so many letters mean, we decipher: SAE is the abbreviation for the Society of Automotive Engineers, W indicates that the oil is winter or all-weather, API is the abbreviated name of the American Petroleum Institute, S indicates that the oil is intended for carburetor engines, E - indicates that the oil is intended for engines manufactured after 1972.
To flush the system, instead of the drained used oil, 3 liters of VNIINP-FD special washing oil are poured and the engine is allowed to run on it for 10-15 minutes at low speed (800-1000 rpm) crankshaft speed. Then the washing oil is drained, the oil filter is changed and new oil is poured. It is also advisable to flush the lubrication system with detergent oil for a purely preventive purpose, since after 50-60 thousand kilometers tar deposits and slag appear in the system.
Although the factory recommends periodically flushing the system with detergent oil, it is often not commercially available. It rarely happens at service stations. Therefore, in practice, an extra portion of ordinary oil is used as a washing oil «Zhiguli».
The oil level must be certain. Experienced motorists are often surprised by the fact that in the period from one maintenance to another, that is, over 10 thousand km, it is rarely necessary to add oil. Indeed, the oil consumption of serviceable VAZ engines is minimal, but there comes a time when the engine is no, no, and even overuses oil. You look, and the level is below the mark «min». Despite the fact that the design provides for an oil pressure indicator, periodic checking of the level will eliminate unforeseen accidents. The engine oil level must be checked when the engine is cold. It is necessary to remove the probe, wipe it and reinsert it into the socket. After removing the dipstick again, follow the trace of oil on it to determine the level in the crankcase. If the trail is between the risks «min» and «max», so everything is fine. If the trace of oil coincided with the risk «min» or went down even lower, the oil should be added in small doses with measuring utensils, and after a few minutes, check again with a dipstick (the trace must be between the risks «min» and «max»).
And in gearboxes of bridges, and in boxes (gear and transfer case) oil has to work in difficult conditions, especially the first thousand kilometers. Running in, the gears are cleaned of burrs, and these small metal particles are washed away by oil and clog it. Oil still «nobly», but mechanical impurities make it unable to perform the functions assigned to it. The oil needs to be changed. To do this, you must have wrenches of 17 and 12 mm in size for unscrewing plugs, a filling device, vessels for draining used oil, fresh oil and cleaning material.
Draining oil on a pit or overpass is a simple matter. Since dirt accumulates on the gearboxes of the front and rear axles, the gearbox and the transfer case, it is necessary first of all to clean the drain and filler holes, and then only unscrew the plugs, after substituting the vessels to drain the used oil. The oil must be drained hot, so caution when performing the operation will not hurt.
To pour fresh TAd-17I oil into gearboxes of axles and boxes, you will have to work a little, since the oil must be directed from the bottom up. A device developed by one of the Oryol factories has already appeared on sale, working on the principle of excess pressure. The oil is poured into a tank with a capacity of 3 liters, and then, using a car pump, an excess pressure of up to 50 kPa is created in it. If you disconnect the pump from the tank and insert a hose tip into the filling hole, the oil will have a way to the top.
Oil levels in gearboxes and gearboxes should reach the lower edges of the filling holes: 1.3 liters are poured into axle gearboxes, 1.35 liters into the gearbox.