Troubleshooting and Troubleshooting (VAZ-2106, 1976-2006)

Cause of malfunction	Remedy
Car door won't unlock with key
Frozen water in the larva of the castle, contamination of the larva	1. Warm up the larva, heat the key with a lighter flame, lubricate with penetrating lubricant
	2. Treat the larva with a lock-defrosting agent
Damage to the cylinder mechanism	Replace grub
The door does not open with the outside handle
Outer handle rod broken or disconnected from lock lever	Connect the traction. Replace broken plastic parts
Unpleasant smell in the cabin
Moisture and dirt accumulated under the floor mats	Remove dirt, rinse and dry floors and rugs
Fallen leaves or other debris entered the cabin ventilation system	Clear the air ducts
Seat back not locked in position
Broken back latch teeth	Replace the seat frame or, cutting off the broken retainer with a chisel, weld a new one
The finger connecting the rod to the backrest amplifier fell out	Insert your finger into place and flare it
Seat back won't return from preset position
Broken adjustment spring	Replace spring
Window lifter handle rotates, but window is still
Broken power window cable	Replace cable
Broken slots on the handle	Replace handle
Sliding glass bracket detached	Connect bracket
Window lifter handle is difficult to turn
Dirt got under the glass seals, breakage or contamination of the power window mechanism	Clean the seals, lubricate the mechanism or replace it
Door deformation	Straighten or replace the door
Sliding glass not fixed
Cable pressure plate loose	Tighten the clamping plate fixing screws
When the key is turned in the ignition switch, the sound of the starter is not heard or only clicks of the traction relay are heard
The battery is discharged or defective	Charge the battery by checking the electrolyte level and density. If the battery does not charge, replace it
Oxidation of the battery terminals and wire terminals, poor tightening of the terminals	Clean the leads and terminals. Fasten the terminals securely to the terminals, apply grease
Faulty ignition switch, contacts do not close "30" And "50"	Replace the contact part of the ignition switch or the lock
Breakage, oxidation of contacts in the power supply circuit of the starter traction relay	Check the wires and connections in the circuit: battery - terminal "50" traction relay
Weakened the fastening of the tips of the wire connecting the power unit to the body.	Tighten the wire lugs
The contact bolts and wire ends on the contact bolts of the starter traction relay are oxidized or the nuts of their fastening are loosened	Strip the contacts and tighten the nuts
Faulty traction relay, open or short circuit in the holding winding, oxidation of contacts	Replace traction relay
Seizure of the starter armature shaft in the bearings, burning of the collector, freezing or wear of the brushes, interturn short circuit in the windings or on "mass"	Repair or replace starter
starter running (possibly with a lot of noise), but the crankshaft is stationary or turns jerky
Freewheel slipping	Replace clutch
Breakage of the drive mechanism, drive ring, buffer spring	Replace broken parts
Damaged starter gear or flywheel crown teeth, ring turns on flywheel	Replace broken parts
The starter rotates the crankshaft with a rattle (perhaps after starting the engine, a squeal of the gear is heard)
Severe wear of the gear and flywheel crown	Replace drive, flywheel or starter
The gear does not disengage from the crown due to a malfunction of the drive, switching relay, ignition switch (contacts do not open "30" And "50"), starter traction relay	Repair or replace parts and assemblies
The fastening of the starter poles has loosened, the bearings or the necks of the armature shaft are worn out	Repair or replace starter
The starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start
The battery is almost empty, after a few revolutions the crankshaft stops	Charge the battery by checking the electrolyte level and density, clean the leads and tighten the wire terminals, replace the battery if necessary
There is no fuel in the tank	Fill the tank
Clogged fuel lines or fuel filter, an ice plug has formed in the power system. There is no smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe when trying to start	Replace the fuel filter, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air, clean the fuel inlet mesh, warm up the car in a warm garage if possible
Fuel pump defective. Fuel is not supplied to the carburetor	Check pump operation, repair or replace if necessary
Air suction into the intake pipeline through the vacuum brake booster, joints and hose connections	Check all connections and repair leaks
High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs due to a loose fit, damage or oxidation of the high voltage wire lugs, high voltage output of the ignition coil, damage to the wire insulation	Fasten the wires securely, clean the connections, if necessary, replace the wires or coil
The procedure for connecting high voltage wires to the ignition distributor is violated	Check and connect the wires in the correct order
Oily or damaged spark plugs	Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust electrode gap
Incorrect ignition timing	Check that the ignition timing is set correctly, adjust if necessary
The contacts of the breaker are oiled or burnt, the gap between them is not adjusted	Clean the contacts, adjust the gap
Damaged or out of order parts of the ignition distributor: cover, center electrode, contact group, moving plate bearing, capacitor or resistor	Replace parts or ignition distributor
Faulty Hall sensor or its electrical circuits (for non-contact ignition system)	Check circuits, replace sensor
Faulty switch (for non-contact ignition system)	Replace Switch
Faulty ignition coil	Replace coil
Faulty low voltage circuit (from the battery to the coil through the ignition switch)	Check the circuit with an ohmmeter, clean the oxidized wire ends, if damaged, replace the wires or the ignition switch
Valve timing shifted	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
Clogged channels or carburetor jets	Rinse carburetor parts, blow channels and jets with compressed air
The engine does not start for a long time
No fuel in the carburetor float chamber after a long stop	Manually pump fuel with the pump lever
Clogged or damaged hoses or fuel lines	Wash the fuel receiver mesh with a solvent, eliminate kinks in the hoses, blow out the lines with compressed air
Engine starts, but immediately stalls or runs erratically
Leakage of current through contaminated insulation of high-voltage wires, faulty insulators of candles	Clean or replace wires, replace faulty spark plugs
Incorrect ignition timing	Adjust ignition timing
Incorrect gap between breaker contacts	Adjust gap
Incorrect gap between the electrodes of the spark plugs, heavy deposits on the electrodes and insulators of the spark plugs	Clean or replace the spark plugs, set the required gap by bending the side electrode
Wear, contamination or burning of the contacts of the breaker and other elements of the ignition distributor	Clean parts or replace distributor
Shifted valve timing	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
Idle adjustment broken	Adjust idle
Water ingress into the carburetor	Remove fuel from the float chamber, drain the sediment from the fuel tank. Application possible (according to instructions) water-binding additives
Clogged channels and carburetor jets	Wash the carburetor parts in solvent, blow the channels and jets with compressed air
Insufficient or excessive fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
The tightness of the diaphragm of the starting device is broken	Change diaphragm
Air sucking through leaks in the intake piping	Eliminate leaks
Faulty idle economizer system	1. Check and in case of malfunction replace the solenoid valve control unit (for vehicles with contactless ignition system)
	2. Check and in case of malfunction replace the solenoid valve
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	Check the condition of the fuel pump diaphragms. Replace defective diaphragms. Adjust the protrusion of the pump pusher
Low idle speed
Carburetor idle adjustment out of order	Adjust idle
High fuel level in carburetor float chamber	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
Ignition timing incorrectly set	Adjust ignition timing
Clogging of the idle jets, damage to the sealing rubber ring of the quality screw	Flush with solvent and blow out the jets, replace the damaged ring
Air filter element dirty	Replace filter element
High idle speed
Violation of idle adjustment	Adjust idle
Ignition timing incorrectly set	Adjust ignition timing
Skewed, incomplete closing of the throttle valves	Eliminate the cause of incomplete closing of the dampers
Pedal drive not adjusted "gas", no pedal free play "gas"	Adjust pedal drive "gas"
In winter, the engine stalls after starting to move
An ice plug has formed in the carburetor diffuser due to improper installation of the air filter cover or the hot air hose coming off the exhaust manifold bracket	Install the air filter cover in the position corresponding to the hot air supply, secure the hose with a clamp. If possible, warm up the car in a warm garage
Extraneous noises and knocks are heard in the engine
A dull or sharp metallic knock due to:
A) increased clearance in the main or connecting rod bearings, between the thrust washers and the crankshaft	A) repair the engine
b) insufficient oil pressure	b) troubleshoot the lubrication system
A muffled knock caused by the shifting of the pistons in the cylinders when they are mutually heavily worn	Repair the engine
Chirping sound caused by malfunctions and wear of parts of the gas distribution mechanism: necks, bearings and camshaft cams, valves and their bushings; increased valve clearances	Replace worn and damaged parts, adjust valve clearances
Whistling sound or buzzing caused by:
A) weakening or wear of the alternator drive belt	A) tighten or replace the belt
b) coolant pump bearing wear	b) replace pump
V) wear of bearings or short circuit of generator windings	V) replace bearings or alternator assembly
Loud, rumbling sound coming from the bottom of the car due to damage or burnt parts of the exhaust system	Replace damaged exhaust system parts
The emergency oil pressure lamp comes on and does not go out
Not enough oil in the crankcase	Check the level and add oil if necessary
Foreign particles or stuck oil pump relief valve	Clean valve, clear blockage or replace pump
Malfunction of the emergency oil pressure sensor	Replace sensor
Severe wear of oil pump parts	Replace pump
Strong wear of the necks of the crankshaft and camshaft, their liners and bearings	Repair the engine
Engine warms up slowly
Faulty thermostat	Replace thermostat
The electric fan is constantly running due to a malfunction of the electric fan switch-on sensor	Replace sensor
When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels do not brake
Parking brake drive not adjusted	Adjust drive
After a long period of parking, the brake pads "stuck" or frozen to the drums	Alone or with assistance, move the vehicle by releasing the wheels. When placing the car for a long parking, as well as in winter, brake it, including only the transmission
clutch pedal "fails", the clutch does not disengage
Leakage of the cylinder, pipeline or hose of the hydraulic drive system	Replace defective parts
Clutch pedal makes noise when pressed
Deterioration of the release bearing, lack of lubrication in the pedal joint	Replace bearing, lubricate pedal axle
Vibration and noise is felt when the clutch pedal is released
Severe wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the windows under the springs	Replace driven disk
Car jerks when driving
The hub of the driven disk sticks on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox	Clean the slots of both parts, remove the burrs with a needle file. Replace severely damaged parts. When assembling, apply a thin layer of lubricant LSTs-15, SHRUS-4 or similar to the splines
Lubrication on the working surfaces of the discs	Rinse the surfaces of the discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leakage through the engine or gearbox oil seals)
Severe wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the windows under the springs	Replace driven disk
Seizures on the working surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate	Replace damaged parts
The engine speeds up, but the car accelerates poorly. Clutch slips, smell of overheated friction linings
Oil ingress on the working surfaces of the discs	Rinse the surfaces of the discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leakage through the engine or gearbox oil seals)
Clutch drive sticking	Eliminate jamming or replace drive parts
Strong wear, warping and burning of the lining of the driven disk	Replace driven disk
Clutch "leads" (partial shutdown), making it difficult to shift gears (noise, rattle) with a good gearbox
Large gaps in the clutch release drive	Adjust drive
The hub of the driven disk sticks on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox	Clean the slots of both parts, remove the burrs with a needle file. Replace severely damaged parts. When assembling, apply a thin layer of lubricant LSTs-15, SHRUS-4 or similar to the splines
Scuffing on the working surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate, warping or warping of the pressure plate, wear of the petal spring, warping of the driven disk	Replace the driven disc or clutch basket assembly
Air has entered the hydraulic clutch system	Bleed the hydraulic system
Fluid leakage from the clutch hydraulic system	Repair the leak and bleed the system
Clutch "slips" (incomplete engagement of the clutch)
There are no gaps in the clutch release drive	Adjust drive
Great wear of the friction linings of the driven disk	Replace the driven disc or clutch basket assembly
Lubrication of the friction linings of the driven disk, the surface of the flywheel or the clutch pressure plate	Eliminate the causes of oiling. Clean oily parts with white spirit
Knocking noise heard when touching
Destruction of the supports of the power unit, rubber-metal hinges of the suspension	Replace defective parts
Loose suspension fasteners	Tighten fasteners
Wear of cardan bearings	Replace bearings
Too much clearance in the gears or final drive bearings	Repair the rear axle
Large gap in the spline connection of the front propeller shaft	Replace worn parts
The fastening of the cardan shaft to the flange of the rear axle gearbox has loosened	Pull up connection
Difficulty shifting gears
Clutch "leads"	See above
Sticking of the spherical joint of the gear lever	Deburr friction surfaces
Difficulty moving the sliding clutch along the splines of the synchronizer hub in the gearbox	Clean parts from dirt, clean burrs
Deformation of parts of the gear selection mechanism, loosening of the fastening of the shift forks on the rods	Replace parts, tighten fork fixing bolts
Transmission randomly turns off ("fly out") or turn on indistinctly
Wear of parts of the gear shift drive: balls, rods, rod sockets, detent springs	Replace worn parts
Strong wear of the working surfaces of the gear shift forks	Replace worn parts
Severe wear of splines on couplings, gears or synchronizer hubs	Replace worn parts
Deterioration of blocking rings of synchronizers	Replace worn parts
Broken synchronizer springs	Replace broken springs
Gearbox makes a lot of noise
Not enough oil in the crankcase	Check level, add oil
Wear of bearings, gear teeth and synchronizers	Replace worn parts
The engine does not develop full power, the car twitches, low throttle response
Throttle valve does not open fully	Adjust damper actuator
Air filter element dirty	Replace filter element
Strong soot, incorrect gap between the electrodes of the spark plugs, damage to the insulation of high-voltage wires	Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust electrode gap, replace damaged wires
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	Check the condition of the pump diaphragms. Replace defective diaphragms. Adjust the protrusion of the pusher
Shifted valve timing	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
Air sucking through leaks in the intake piping	Restore the tightness of the connections
Incorrect ignition timing	Adjust ignition timing
Incorrect gap between breaker contacts	Adjust gap
Wear, contamination or burning of the contacts of the breaker and other elements of the ignition distributor	Clean parts or replace distributor
Faulty Hall sensor or its electrical circuits (for non-contact ignition system)	Check circuits, replace sensor
Faulty switch (for non-contact ignition system)	Replace Switch
Clogged channels and carburetor jets	Wash the carburetor parts in solvent, blow the channels and jets with compressed air
Insufficient or excessive fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
General severe engine wear, low or uneven compression in the cylinders, occurrence of piston rings, wear or damage to the valves, their bushings and seats, wear of the camshaft cams	Repair the engine
The engine gets very hot
Cooling fan not working	Check the power circuits and the electric fan itself, restore power supply or replace the electric fan
Too little fluid in the cooling system	Add liquid, check the tightness of the cooling system
Faulty thermostat (the temperature at the bottom of the radiator is low)	Replace thermostat
The outer surface of the radiator is dirty	Rinse the outside of the radiator with a jet of water or blow with compressed air
Large deposits of scale and corrosion products on the internal surfaces of the cooling system	Flush the cooling system with special preparations according to the instructions for their use
Incorrect ignition timing	Adjust ignition timing
Low octane fuel filled into the tank	Use only recommended fuel
Large deposits of soot in the combustion chamber, on the piston crowns and valve plates	Eliminate the cause of severe carbon deposits, clean parts, use high quality engine oil
Insufficient tension of the water pump drive belt	Adjust belt tension
Faulty radiator plug valve	Replace plug
Faulty coolant pump	Replace pump
Engine detonates (loud knocks that occur during acceleration and disappear when dropping "gas")
Low octane fuel filled into the tank	Use only recommended fuel
Large deposits of soot in the combustion chamber, on the piston crowns and valve plates	Eliminate the cause of severe carbon deposits, clean parts, use high quality engine oil
Engine overheating	Eliminate engine overheating (see above)
Ignition timing incorrectly set (too early ignition)	Adjust ignition timing
The steering wheel is difficult to turn
Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels	Adjust tire pressure to correct
Incorrect front wheel alignment	Adjust the angles
Low or no oil in the steering gear	After eliminating the cause of leakage, add oil
Deformation of suspension parts	Repair or replace damaged parts
Incorrectly adjusted worm gear in the steering gearbox	Adjust gear engagement
Overtightening the adjusting nut of the pendulum arm axle	Adjust nut tightening
Parts of ball joints of steering rods or ball bearings of the front suspension are damaged by corrosion	Replace damaged parts
Increased steering wheel play
Large clearance in the worm gear of the steering gear	Adjust gear engagement
Loose steering gear to body	Tighten the fastening nuts
Increased play in the front wheel bearings	Adjust bearing clearances
Wear of pendulum arm bushings	Replace bushings or install pendulum mechanism with rolling bearings
Wear of parts of ball joints	Replace worn parts
Noise and knocks when driving on a flat road
The use of winter, studded and "all-terrain" tires on clean asphalt	Use tires according to road conditions
Wheel bearing wear	Replace bearings
Loose wheel bolts	Tighten wheel bolts
Worn rubber-metal hinges of suspension arms	Replace hinges or levers
Wear of bearings, gear teeth of the rear axle reducer	Repair or replace gearbox
Wear of bearings of semiaxes of the rear axle	Replace axle shafts
Wear of the bearing of the intermediate support of the cardan shaft	Replace bearing
Clicks and noises when turning the car
Wheel bearing wear	Replace bearings
Loose wheel bolts or hub nuts	Tighten fasteners
Loose suspension fasteners, as well as steering gear, steering wheel, steering column bracket	Tighten fasteners
Steering gear malfunction	Repair or replace steering gear
Worn or damaged differential parts	Replace worn or damaged parts
Worn or destroyed rubber-metal hinges of the front and rear suspensions	Replace damaged parts
Wear of front suspension ball joints	Replace worn parts
Destruction of the rubber pads of the stabilizer bar	Change your pillows
Vibrations while driving
Front wheel imbalance, deformation or uneven tire wear, tread peeling	Replace defective tires, balance wheels
Severe wheel bearing wear	Replace bearings
Loose suspension fasteners	Tighten fasteners
Bearing wear of the intermediate support of the cardan shaft or loosening of the support	Replace bearing or retighten support mount
Loose fastening of the cardan shaft to the flange of the gearbox shank	Tighten propshaft mount
Deformation of the cardan shaft, loss of its balancing weights	Replace cardan shaft
Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead
Different pressure in the tires of the front wheels or different degrees of wear	Equalize tire pressures, install tires with the same degree of wear
Violation of wheel alignment angles	Adjust wheel alignment
Braking front or rear wheel	Eliminate stutter
Deformation or breakage of suspension parts, wear of rubber-metal hinges	Repair or replace deformed or worn parts
Vibrations, rattles and squeaks when braking
Deformation, corrosion or scoring of the working surfaces of brake discs or drums	Replace brake discs or drums (in pairs on each axis)
Oiling, complete wear of the linings or the inclusion of foreign particles in them	Replace the pads, having previously eliminated the cause of oiling
Weak or broken rear wheel brake pad return spring	Replace spring
Car pull when braking
Lubrication of brake pads	Eliminate the cause of oiling, clean or replace the brake pads
Incorrect actuator adjustment or faulty pressure regulator	Adjust the drive or replace the pressure regulator, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Violated wheel alignment, varying degrees of tire wear	Adjust the wheel alignment, install tires with the same degree of wear
Seizure of the piston in the working brake cylinder of one of the wheels	Replace the working cylinder, bleed the hydraulic drive system
One of the brake circuits is not working effectively (pipeline leakage or collapse)	Restore circuit performance, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Insufficient braking performance
Use of summer tires in winter	Use tires according to the season
Overheating of the brake mechanisms	Stop the vehicle and let the brakes cool down.
Lubrication of brake pads	Eliminate the cause of oiling, clean or replace the brake pads
Complete wear of brake pads (accompanied by a creak or rattle)	Replace pads. If there are scuffs on the disc or drum, then replace these parts as well
The pressure regulator drive is incorrectly adjusted or the regulator is faulty	Adjust the pressure regulator drive, replace the faulty regulator, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Seizure of the piston in the working brake cylinder	Replace the working cylinder, bleed the hydraulic drive system
One of the brake circuits does not work (hose rupture or pipeline collapse)	Restore the circuit by replacing parts, bleed the hydraulic drive system
The vacuum booster is faulty or the tightness of its hose connections is broken	Check the hose connections, replace the vacuum booster if necessary, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Air ingress into hydraulic brakes (pedal "soft")	Remove air by bleeding hydraulic brakes
Leakage of the hydraulic brake system	Tighten the connections, eliminate leaks, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Incomplete wheel release
No free play on the brake pedal	Adjust pedal free play
Vacuum booster rod protrusion not adjusted	Adjust stem protrusion
Seizure of pistons in the main or working cylinders due to corrosion or swelling of the cuffs	Replace the cylinder assembly, replace the brake fluid, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Pad sticking due to corrosion and contamination (weakening or breakage of the springs of the brake pads of the rear wheels)	Remove pads, clean brakes (replace spring if necessary)
Clogged compensation hole in the brake master cylinder	Clean the hole, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Rocking of the car when driving, a strong roll in corners
Faulty front shock absorbers (or) rear suspension	Replace defective shock absorbers in pairs
Deformation of the anti-roll bar, destruction of its rubber pads or mounting brackets	Replace damaged parts
Rapid drop in coolant level
Damage to the radiator, hoses, loosening of their connections with pipes	Repair leaks in connections, replace damaged parts
Damage to the cylinder head gasket, the block itself or the head	Replace damaged parts
Worn or damaged coolant pump seal	Replace pump
Rapid drop in brake fluid level
Leakage of cuffs of working cylinders or pipeline connections, traces of liquid are visible near the leak	Replace the faulty working cylinder, restore the tightness of the connections
Leakage of the cuffs of the main brake cylinder, the liquid flows into the cavity of the vacuum booster, its traces are not visible	After removing the master cylinder and checking for leakage, replace it. Before installing the cylinder, remove the vacuum booster and pour out the liquid from it
Heater fan not working
Poor contact in wire connections, blown fuse	Replace fuse, repair connections
Faulty heater operating mode switch	Replace Switch
Faulty heater motor	Replace motor
Heater fan only works at one speed
Faulty switch or burnt auxiliary resistor	Replace switch or resistor
The wiper motor does not work, the bimetal fuse does not work, the fuse in the block is not blown
Faulty wire connections or steering column switch	Repair connections or replace switch
Defective gear motor	Replace gear motor
The wiper motor does not work, the bimetal fuse blows, or the fuse in the unit blows
Short circuit in the motor winding of the geared motor	Replace gear motor
The brushes are frozen to the glass or a foreign object has fallen into the lever mechanism	Eliminate the obstacle to the movement of the mechanism
Windshield wiper does not work intermittently
Faulty relay or switch	Replace failed nodes
Wiper does not stop intermittently
Faulty relay	Replace relay
Faulty contacts in the gear motor	Clean, bend the contacts or replace the gearmotor
Wiper blades stop at random position
Loose crank nut	After installing the crank, tighten the nut
Faulty contacts in the gear motor	Replace gear motor
Wiper blades not working synchronously
Loosening of the brush leash on the shaft	After setting the brush in the desired position, tighten the leash nut
The electric motor is running, but the wiper blades are stationary
Loosening the crank nut of the gearmotor	After installing the crank in the desired position, tighten its nut
Destruction of the gear motor-reducer	Replace gear motor
The control lamp of a charge of the rechargeable battery burns. Mains voltage below 13.2 V
Alternator drive belt broken or loose	Replace or tighten belt
Faulty: voltage regulator, rectifier unit or excitation power supply diodes	Replace defective parts
Open or short circuit in the generator windings	Replace stator, rotor or generator assembly
The control lamp of a charge of the rechargeable battery does not burn. The battery is empty. Appliances are working
The control lamp burned out or there was an open circuit in its power circuit	Replace lamp or repair connections
Worn or stuck alternator brushes, dirty contact rings	Replace the brush holder with brushes, clean the contact rings with fine-grained sandpaper, wipe with a cloth soaked in solvent
Disconnected wire from outlet "67" generator	Connect wire to terminal
Damaged voltage regulator and rectifier unit	Replace defective items
The battery charge warning lamp lights up when the engine is running, the battery is being recharged
Faulty voltage regulator	Replace voltage regulator
The control lamp of a charge of the rechargeable battery does not burn at inclusion of ignition. Appliances don't work
Blown fuse F10 or F9	Replace blown fuse
An open has occurred in the power circuit of the instrument cluster or from the ignition switch to the mounting block	Restore connection
Faulty ignition switch	Replace the faulty contact group or lock assembly
Headlights, lamps or ceiling lamps do not burn
Burnt out lamps	Replace lamps
Fuses blown	Replace fuses
Faulty relays or switches (switches)	Replace defective items
Damaged wires and their connections	Restore connections
The direction indicator lamp flashes at a double frequency
One of the turn signal bulbs burned out	Replace lamp
Badly "keeps" parking brake
Brake drive not adjusted	Adjust drive
Drive cables stick in sheaths	Lubricate the cables with a penetrating lubricant, in case of severe corrosion and other damage, replace them
Water enters the interior
The position of the doors in the openings of the body is not adjusted	Adjust the position of the doors
Seal loose or damaged	Fit tightly or replace the seal
The door does not open with the inside handle
Broken handle lever	Replace handle
Insufficient traction stroke	Adjust the position of the inner handle
Uneven and rapid tire tread wear
Wheel alignment misaligned	Adjust installation angles
Increased wheel imbalance, rim deformation	Balance or change wheel
Increased play in steering and suspension, heavily worn wheel bearings, faulty shock absorbers	Eliminate faults, replace, if necessary, parts and assemblies
Great fuel consumption
Increased mechanical and aerodynamic resistance to movement: overloading the vehicle, low tire pressure, use of tires with winter or "cross-country" tread pattern, installation of a roof rack, various spoilers and guards, opening windows at high speed	Avoid these factors whenever possible
"Sports" driving style with sudden accelerations, constant movement at high speed	Slow down while trying to maintain a calm driving style
Rear wheel brake pads rubbing against drums due to misadjusted parking brake actuator	Adjust parking brake actuator
Front wheel alignment misaligned	Adjust wheel alignment
Energy-intensive consumers are often used: high-power sound speakers, electric heaters, additional lighting equipment	Try to reduce your car's energy consumption
High viscosity oils are used in the engine and gearbox in the cold season	Use an oil suitable for the climatic conditions
Other causes of increased fuel consumption, see above: "The engine does not develop power, the car twitches, throttle response is low"
High consumption of engine oil
Oil leakage through worn crankshaft oil seals, valve stem seals, damaged oil pan gaskets and cylinder head covers	Replace worn and damaged parts, clean the crankcase ventilation system
General strong wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group and the gas distribution mechanism	Repair the engine
Gearbox oil leak
Wear of the oil seals of the primary or secondary shafts	Replace seals
Drain plug loose	Close the cap securely
Oil leakage from the rear axle
Wear of axle seals	Replace seals
Deterioration of the oil seal of the drive gear	Replace seal
Drain plug loose	Close the cap securely
Clogged rear axle breather	Rotate the cap to clean the breather
Working fluid leaks from suspension shock absorbers
Defective shock absorber seals	Replace shock absorbers
Leaking brake fluid
The tightness of the hydraulic drive is broken	Eliminate leaks, replace defective components, add brake fluid and bleed the hydraulic drive