2. Establish loose leaves of radical bearings in bed of the block of cylinders according to the labels made at dismantling. Please note that the middle liner 1 is without a groove. When installing the liners, their locking antennae must enter the grooves of the beds. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.
3. Install the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
4. Grease persistent half rings with engine oil. Pay attention to the grooves of the half rings - these sides of the half rings are installed to the cheeks of the crankshaft.
5. Install the steel-aluminum half ring (white color) from the front side of the middle bed (camshaft drive side) …
6....cermet (yellow color) on the other side of the bed.
7. Turn the half rings so that their ends are flush with the ends of the bed.
8. Insert loose leaves into covers of radical bearings according to the labels made at dismantling. In this case, the locking antennae of the liners should enter the grooves of the covers. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.
9. Install the covers according to the marks. Lids are labeled (notches) according to the cylinder number. The exception is the fifth cover, on which two marks are applied, as well as on the second one. On the second cover there are two threaded holes for the oil receiver mounting bolts. The cylinder numbers are counted from the camshaft drive side, and the covers are installed with marks 1 towards the generator bracket 2.
10. Grease with engine oil a carving and end faces of heads of bolts of fastening of covers.
11. Screw in the bolts and tighten them to the required torque (see «Tightening torques») in the following order: first tighten the bolts of the third cover 1, then the second 2 and the fourth 3, then the first 4 and the fifth 5. After tightening the bolts, turn the crankshaft two or three turns - it should rotate easily, without jamming.
12. For ease of installation, lubricate the oil pump gasket with a thin layer of grease and «glue» her to the block. Remove excess grease.
13. Install the oil pump and screw in the bolts of its fastening (see «Removal and installation of the oil pump»).
14. For ease of installation, lightly grease the rear oil seal retainer gasket and «glue» her to the block. Remove excess grease.
15. Establish the holder of a back epiploon and screw bolts of its fastening (see «Replacing the crankshaft seals»).
4.16. Device for pressing the piston pin: 1 - roller; 2 - piston pin; 3 - guide sleeve; 4 - screw; 5 - distance ring
16. Insert the connecting rod into the piston in accordance with the marks previously made so that the part number 1 on the connecting rod is facing away from the lug 2 on the piston boss.
17. To press the piston pin, it is better to use a special tool. In its absence, you can choose a suitable mandrel. Put on piston pin 2 (pic. 4.16) on the shaft 1 of the piston pin installer with the distance ring 5 put on it. Then put on the guide sleeve 3 and fix it with the screw 4 without tightening it. Distance ring dimensions: outer diameter 22 mm, inner diameter 15 mm, thickness 4 mm.
18. Heat the connecting rod head to 240°C in an oven for 15 minutes. Clamp the connecting rod in a vise, install the piston on it so that the holes for the pin match, and insert the fixture with the pin into the holes of the piston and connecting rod until it stops. To properly install the pin, the piston must be pressed with the boss against the upper head of the connecting rod in the direction of pressing.
19. After the connecting rod has cooled, lubricate the piston pin through the hole in the piston bosses.
20. Install retaining rings on both sides of the pin. Pay attention to the fact that the rings must be clearly installed in the piston grooves.
21. Install the oil scraper ring expansion spring on the piston.
22. Install piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If it is not there, install the rings on the piston, carefully spreading their locks.
23. The order of installation of the rings: the oil scraper ring is installed first (the ring lock must be on the opposite side of the expansion spring lock), then the lower compression ring, the last - the upper one.
24. Please note that the inscription can be embossed on the rings «VAZ», «TOP» or «TOP». With this inscription, the rings are set up (to the bottom of the piston). If there is no inscription, the oil scraper and top compression can be installed in any position.
25. The lower compression ring differs from the upper one, except for the thickness, by the presence of a groove; it is installed with this groove down.
Turn the rings in the piston grooves to make sure they turn easily. If any ring does not turn or sticks, it must be replaced.
26. Install the rings on the piston so that their locks are located at an angle of 120°to each other.
27. Thoroughly wipe the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft with a clean cloth.
28. Thoroughly wipe the cylinder mirrors with a clean cloth and lubricate them with engine oil.
29. Insert the liner into the connecting rod in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the tab of the liner fits into the groove in the connecting rod. Then lubricate the liner and piston with engine oil.
30. Put on the piston a special mandrel for compressing the piston rings and carefully lower the connecting rod into the cylinder. It is recommended to pre-turn the crankshaft so that the piston to be installed is at BDC. The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the front of the engine (towards the camshaft drive).
31. Firmly press the mandrel against the block and use the hammer handle to push the piston into the cylinder. If the mandrel does not fit snugly against the cylinder block, piston rings can be broken.
32. Establish the lower head of a rod on a neck of a cranked shaft.
33. Insert the liner into the connecting rod cover in accordance with the marks made earlier so that the liner antenna enters the groove in the cover. Then lubricate the bearing with engine oil.
34. Install the connecting rod cap. The cylinder numbers on the cap and the bottom end of the connecting rod must be on the same side.
35. Wrap the cover fastening nuts and tighten them to the required torque (see «Tightening torques»). Install the rest of the pistons in the same way.
36. Insert the oil level sensor into the cylinder block. If necessary, turn the crankshaft so that the counterweight of the shaft does not interfere with the insertion of the sensor. Then tighten the sensor mounting bolt.
37. Install the oil receiver and screw in the three bolts of its fastening.
38. Apply sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts. Install the flywheel, lock plate and screw the flywheel mounting bolts (see more details. «Removal, installation and troubleshooting of the flywheel»).
39. For ease of installation, apply a thin layer of grease to the surface of the block and «glue» oil pan gasket to it.
40. Install the oil sump and screw in the bolts of its fastening (see «Tightening torques»). Next, assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. Install the cylinder head (see «Replacing the cylinder head gasket» in subsection «Replacing Engine Seal Parts»), camshaft drive belt (see «Replacing the camshaft drive belt and belt tension adjustment»).
41. Establish other knots and details in an order, the return to removal.
Helpful Hints: After assembling the engine, it is recommended to run it on the stand. Since it is impossible to do this outside of special repair organizations, after installing the engine on a car, run it in according to a simplified cycle:
- make sure that the throttle actuator is adjusted correctly, fill in oil and coolant, check the tightness of all connections;
- start the engine and let it run without load on the next cycle.
- Do not bring the engine to maximum modes;
- during operation, check the tightness of the engine and its systems, oil pressure, pay attention to the presence of extraneous noise;
- if extraneous noises or other malfunctions are detected, stop the engine and eliminate their cause;
- when starting the operation of the car, observe the modes provided for the break-in period of a new car.
